Summer 2023: Roots & Wings: Hurtigruten

Day 3

After the concert I hit my bunk and slept six hours straight! I didn’t even notice an early morning docking at Finnsnes, but was enjoying smoked mackerel for breakfast (when in Norway...) as we docked in Harstad.

Crossing paths

A grey morning – not rain, but low cloud, hiding the hilltops as we pass through the straits. Our route weaves through the islands, and the water is still very calm. We passed one Hurtigruten ferry yesterday afternoon, passing north, and another one leaving Harstad as we arrived. They don’t follow identical routes north- and south-bound, which allows some of the smaller communities to have occasional visits, while places like Tromsø are major hubs.

At Risøyrenna the channel is very narrow and continually dredged

Mid-morning we passed Risøyrenna, which is an artificial channel dredged from the sandy banks between the islands of Hinnøya and Andøya, turning the narrow and shallow strait between the islands into a major shipping lane that allows much larger vessels to pass. Larger really means the daily Hurtigruten ferries – with not much space to spare at low tide. The big cruise ships are just too large...

Some of our tourists left us at Harstad and rejoined us at Sortland – they took a side-trip that allows for tasting of local delicacies.

Simple - and very tasty!

The quality and choice of food on this ship is outstanding – there are buffets for breakfast and lunch, and dinner is themed. Yesterday’s meal offered an appetizer of smoked reindeer, a beet salad (which I had) or a cauliflower soup; mains were a pork dish, a risotto with seafood, and one with forest mushrooms (which all four of us enjoyed); dessert offered a cheesecake made with local brown cheese and sour cream. And bless them – they’re very careful to identify possible allergens, so I don’t need to worry about my shellfish problem.

Assistance with our Norwegian

On a day like today with few stops, they offer interest sessions – on the Norwegian language, today. Lots of fascinating information – I didn’t realise that Norway was actually part of Denmark till 1815 – but the Danes sided with Napoleon, and were forced to cede territory to Sweden. With the whole nationalist movement of the 19th century, Norway established itself as a political entity, and had to establish a written language other than Danish – there are still two written forms of Norwegian – Nynorsk, which is favoured in more rural communities, and Bokmål (book language). Kathy and I were amused by being taught about Norwegian by Sven, who is actually Swedish – but as he said, learning if from the outside can be helpful. Apparently the crew all speak their own languages and everyone seems to understand! And their English is really good! All I really have to do is say “Takk!”

The Hurtigruten museum on the dock at Stokmarknes

We had 30 mins in Sortland (where we waved to the cruise bus as it passed over the Sortland bridge as we passed below it), a one-hour stop in Stokmarknes and a longer one in Svolvaer. Stokmarknes is the birthplace of the Hurtigruten enterprise, and there’s a large museum there, offered as one of the excursions. I decided that I’d just get out and stretch my legs a bit, and keep Svolvaer as my longer outing. There was a delay in getting underway again – a couple of passengers wandering back as if scheduling was not a problem! I wonder how often they actually leave...

The longer bridge at Stokmarknes

Coming out from Stokmarknes we passed under one of those fabulous bridges, and then headed across the bay to a narrow passage between two islands. At one point we looped round an island and back to the entry to Trollfjord, and went in under minimal power – the feeling of being surrounded with these awe-inspiring walls was wonderful. I think this fjord is too small for the big cruise ships.

Going down the main channel

Looking back at where we'd been

Trollfjord

Svolvaer is the jumping-off point for trips to the Lofoten Islands. We were there 6:30-8:30pm, and they rearranged dinner for a buffet so everyone could eat before disembarking. There were a number of excursions (all of which cost $50-300, depending) – I decided I was just going to wander. It’s a tourist town, and they’re ready to deal with people coming off ships – whether Hurtigruten ones or the ginormous ones!

Svolvaer church

the waterfront

kayaking lesson before they set off

Looking out the way we'll be leaving

with a troll to see us off!

I couldn’t believe how mild it was – about 15°C, and this still well above the Arctic Circle. I guess it’s like Western Scotland, where the Gulf Stream throws all sorts of temperate curve-balls. I wandered into town, and then across to the church – sadly, closed. Then down to the waterfront which was very busy – marina, and excursion boats, and someone teaching kayaking. Back to the ship in good time, and treated myself to a glass of wine as we pulled out. Our next stop is still in the Lofoten Islands, and we’re travelling parallel to the mountains, with a sea like glass on our port side. Sadly, no sign of whales.