Cats, Cheese and Caves

Looks like the Sanctuary, doesn't it?

One of the reasons I selected West Burton for last night’s stay was part of the morning’s plans.  Just down the village green a little way is Moorside Pottery, where potter Sarah Nichols specializes in cats. For more of her work, check here. 

Sadly, it’ll be the last visit there; Sarah tells me both her parents died – it was their home attached to the pottery – and she’s selling up, probably working from home with a smaller kiln. The walk up to the workshop is through a fragrant garden, and everywhere are cats – slipcast and ceramic.  How could I resist!

From West Burton, I headed on past Aysgarth Falls to Hawes, where I indulged in a visit to the Wensleydale Creamery  They have a really interesting museum display, and a demonstration of cheese-making. The place is locally owned and operated, and combines science and craft – they are extremely eco-conscious: for instance, most of their water-usage comes from what’s left when the whey fluid is drained off from the cheese curds and processed to extract whey cream, and then the whey proteins that go to make powder for various purposes.  I love Wensleydale cheese, and they’re now producing it in different varieties: smoked, or with added cranberries, or stem ginger (my favourite) or making local cheddars.  A fascinating hour!

Julian demonstrating cheese-making

The 23rd Psalm in Wensleydale dialect

I could have spent much longer there, but I had afternoon plans.  

Another drive over the moors, with occasional pauses to allow more impatient drivers to pass, and incidentally, to find more little streams that were typical of the places we used to stop for picnics, and for playing in the water.  Finally I crested a hill and the outline of the Three Peaks – Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent – were on the skyline. 

There is an ongoing Three Peaks Challenge, which is to walk the three in 12 hours.  Sounds way too strenuous for me!

Dentdale viaduct

I followed the road around past the Dentdale Viaduct to the little village of Clapham, where there was a Yorkshire Parks parking lot. Clapham is very familiar – as children we stayed for several holidays in the next village of Austwick, and this was all exploring territory.  Heading towards the church, I took the right turn and up a VERY steep track for half a mile or so. I decided that this was probably part of the main hikers trail, and not for me.

WAY too steep for me!

Clapham church

Back past the church, around to the right and there was the entrance I was looking for – the Ingleborough Nature Trail climbs at a steady pace for about 2.5 k; most of it on a tree-shaded path, with the last section in the open beside the beck (local name for a stream). It took me about 40 minutes, uphill all the way!  - though not as steep as the other path...

Upward path - but manageable

emerging from the woods

At the top of the trail is the entrance to Ingleborough Caves. 

cave entrance

Here, the limestone cliff has been extensively explored and a path through it engineered to allow visitors to see what the constantly dripping water creates in the way of stalactites and stalagmites. It’s a self-guided tour – you’re issued with a helmet and a laminated sheet of descriptions and left to go at your own pace.  I was probably the last person to get admission at 4pm, and I was on my own – I met one family coming out, but that was it. 

Head down! Low roof...

The Mushroom Bed

The Sword of Damocles

A very weird experience – not for the claustrophobic! - there are many places where the ceiling is very low, and you need to walk hunched over. But quite fascinating...

Grandma and Grandpa's false teeth

The Reflecting Pool

The Gothic Arch

The walk back was easier, downhill all the way, and only took half an hour. I did a little wander through the village, renewing memories, and then pointed the car down the main road towards Skipton.

The 19th century landscaped lake

The beck runs through the village

This was the most traffic I’d encountered – it’s the main east-west corridor at this point.  In Skipton, SatNav got me arriving safely with Elizabeth and Mike. Liz is the oldest of the cousins on Mum’s side of the family, and I saw them last at Mum’s funeral nearly five years ago – it was lovely to have time to catch up on all the doings of their family.